4.2 : A wave is diffracted around a semi-infinite breakwater. What is the diffraction coefficient?
1.2 : What are the main assumptions made in water wave mechanics?
3.1 : A wave with a wavelength of 100 m and a wave height of 2 m is traveling in water with a depth of 10 m. What is the wave speed?
Solution: Using the run-up formula, we can calculate the run-up height: $R = \frac{H}{\tan{\beta}} = \frac{2}{0.1} = 20$ m.
Solution: The Laplace equation is derived from the continuity equation and the assumption of irrotational flow: $\nabla^2 \phi = 0$, where $\phi$ is the velocity potential.
Solution: The reflection coefficient for a vertical wall is: $K_r = -1$.